London Designer Pure Sex Takes Manhattan

Text & Photos by Fred Berger

It was at Danceteria, New York’s leading alternative nightclub of the 1980s, that I was first introduced to the salacious phenomenon of latex fetish wear. While browsing at the Trash & Vaudeville rock boutique on St. Marks Place in the East Village, I noticed the club’s flier promoting the Pure Sex fashion show on the night of 26 August 1985. It’s S&M style artwork caught my eye, so I made the decision to attend the event to cover it for Propaganda Magazine. Peering through the lens of my Nikon FM, I viewed with rapt fascination the tantalizing spectacle of sleek latex clad models ruling the runway, knowing in an instant what a sensational photo feature it would make. As it turned out, Pure Sex was the cover story of Propaganda Issue #6/Spring 1986, filling four pages with heart-throbbing rubberized models unabashedly strutting their stuff, with a flash of bare derriere for added titillation.

This Black & White vertical photo depicts two female models in form-fitting black latex dresses. They have long sleeves and extend down to just above the knees. The model on the left is a black woman with medium length spikey black hair and dark heavy eye-makeup. The one on the right is white with short slicked back black hair, dark heavy eye-makeup, and dark lipstick. They are both young beautiful agency-type models. They are visible from the knees up and stand in front of a white wall. The black model, with her left hand on her hip, looks slightly toward her right. The white model, with her arms at her sides, looks directly at the camera. This photo was taken by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger.
The Pure Sex fashion show at Danceteria in August 1985 was a tour de force of sleek latex fetish attire. The issue of Propaganda featuring this event as the cover story appears on The History of Propaganda Magazine page of this website (Photo & Copyright © by Fred Berger)

Pure Sex was the brainchild of designer Dave Darcy Edmond, initially in partnership with stylist and club promoter Kitty Boots. He was largely influenced by the illustrations of John Willie, publisher and editor of the seminal fetish magazine Bizarre from 1946 to 1956. Bizarre’s femme fatales and dominatrixes, together with female goth and postpunk icons, fueled Edmond’s decadent imagination, resulting in a fetishistic line of latex apparel, clubwear, footwear, and printed T-shirts. From the time of its launch in the mid-1980s until it went on extended hiatus a decade later, the company operated two London retail stores – Pure Sex in Kensington Market and Hyper Hyper. Its American distributor was Trash & Vaudeville, and it was also sold across Europe as well as in Japan. Not only was it a noted brand in the BDSM community, but also in the underground fashion and goth-industrial scenes.

This Black & White horizontal photo depicts three female models in black latex fetish outfits. In the middle is a white woman flanked by two black women. The photo was shot from behind them, with the black model on the left and the white model in the middle facing away from the camera. The black model on the right is seen in profile, facing left toward the white model whose back, buttocks, and thighs are completely exposed due to the wide opening at the back of her dress. This opening is crossed by four belts with buckles, which fasten this half-dress to her body. The two black models are pulling on her dress, as if they’re trying to remove it. The white model stands with her hands of her hips. The model on the left wears a tight latex dress and has medium length spikey black hair. The model on the right wears a latex jacket and tight skirt and is shaved bald. The model in the middle has short black hair. They are seen from the knees up. A large horizontal ventilation duct is suspended from the ceiling in the background, and three spotlights are also fastened to the ceiling on the right. This photo was taken by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger.
This scandalous threesome of latex lovelies was the hit of the evening. The potency of the presentation and the designs proved Pure Sex was a force to be reckoned with on the fetish and alternative fashion scenes. (Photo & Copyright © by Fred Berger)

In addition to his Pure Sex venture, throughout the ‘80s Edmond was a leading designer at the famous alternative fashion house Boy of London. In the ‘90s he was a prominent photojournalist and scene correspondent for the British fetish magazines Skin Two, Zeitgeist, Ritual, and Fetish World UK. From 2000 to 2002, he was associated with the New York dungeon Pandora’s Box as a professional dom and editorial staff member of the periodicals they published including The Vault, Simply Gorgeous, and American Dommes. His seemingly ubiquitous presence, incredible drive, and exceptional talent have left a lasting legacy, which will surely exert its influence on future trends.

This Black & White vertical photo depicts a blonde female model wearing a black latex bustier and miniskirt, as well as fishnet stockings. Her hair is short except for the spikey top, and she has dark heavy eye makeup. She is visible from the ankles up and her body is partially turned toward her left, with her right arm at her side and her left hand on her hip. She’s facing the camera but isn’t looking directly at it. She stands above the audience which is visible in the background, as two photographers, one male and one female, photograph her. It’s a tightly packed racially mixed crowd, with the most prominent spectator being a tall young white man with longish platinum hair who is visible just to the right of the model’s legs. She’s a beautiful young agency type model, slim and leggy with a commanding presence. In the upper part of the background are a large ventilation duct and a row of four spotlights suspended from the ceiling. Also in the background is a thick column with a flowing wavy abstract art pattern painted on it This photo was taken by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger.
Danceteria was packed wall-to-wall with Downtown fashionistas and fashion reporters for the Pure Sex show. As multiple camera motor drives clattered, these top-tier models scorched the runway with sizzling style. (Photo & Copyright © by Fred Berger)
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