History of Propaganda Magazine

Text and Cover Photos by Propaganda Publisher and Editor Fred Berger
"Propaganda is probably the only subculture publication known to just about every goth on the planet."
Nancy Kilpatrick,The Goth Bible

Amidst the maelstrom of the Lower Manhattan hardcore punk scene arose an audacious little fanzine emblazoned with the provocative title Propaganda. It was early 1982 and the Zine Revolution was in full swing, with intrepid young journalists like myself covering the action at nightclubs such as CBGB, the Mudd Club, A7, and the Peppermint Lounge. Braving the brutality of the mosh pit, I was determined to capture the mayhem up close, and even suffered a broken camera in the process. With bands like Fear, Black Flag, Flipper, and Bad Brains, as well as fierce street style, splashed across its stark black & white pages, Propaganda soon gained a reputation for editorial and photographic excellence.

Propaganda Magazine Issue #1, Winter 1982, front cover. Price $1. The top third of the cover is a black ink illustration of a punk girl with a blonde flat-top crewcut, heavy black eye makeup, and black lipstick. She’s wearing a spiked black leather choker, corset, gloves, and high-heel ankle boots, plus a black G-string and fishnet stockings. She’s lying in bed on her belly reading Propaganda Issue #1, the cover of which replicates the actual cover of this issue. The bottom two-thirds of the cover is a black & white photo of a good-looking punk boy with a mohawk hairstyle slicked down over his forehead. It is a head-and-shoulders shot of him facing the camera with downcast eyes. He’s wearing a black leather jacket with spiked studs along the edge of the collar and writing on the back in white paint. The text reads, “He’s eighteen, he wants” – the rest doesn’t form complete words as they follow the curve of his back and out of sight. Close behind him is another punk rocker who is seen in profile. He has very short blonde hair, a black t-shirt, and a large tattoo on his upper arm. This photo was taken at the Marquee Club in London, England in January 1982 by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger. The subtitle at the bottom of the cover reads, “In Search of London Punks.”
Propaganda Issue #1/Winter 1982
Punk rocker at London’s Marquee Club.

Despite its encouraging prospects, a rapid escalation in the scene’s mindless violence and self-destructiveness eventually convinced me to terminate the publication a year and a half after launching it. However, it gained a new raison d’etre when I discovered the band Bauhaus by way of the 1983 vampire film The Hunger. The group’s appearance in the opening scene absolutely captivated me, and the course of history was thus altered, with Propaganda subsequently chronicling the burgeoning gothic subculture. Centered primarily around Danceteria, the World, and the Cat Club in Manhattan, it proved to be an astonishing milieu replete with a bevy of undead beauties adorned in black leather, velvet and lace, who were just aching to be photographed. It was from these enchanting children of the night that Propaganda’s original supermodel, Rex, was recruited. Owing to his androgyny and versatility, he was a true chameleon of style and graced the covers of three different issues in the mid-1980s. At this time and towards the end of the decade, these clubs and others hosted The Sisters of Mercy, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Peter Murphy, Love and Rockets, Xmal Deutschland, The Specimen, Clan of Xymox, and Fields of the Nephilim, all of which were featured in the magazine.

Propaganda Magazine Issue #3, Summer 1984, front cover. Price $1.25. The black & white cover photo depicts a pretty goth boy with short tousled dark hair with spikey bangs. He has heavy black eyeliner and lipstick, and wears a form-fitting, long-sleeve fishnet shirt. He’s looking at the camera and is visible from the hips up. He’s lying in an unfinished pinewood crate which gives the impression of a no-frills coffin. Partially covering the crate is a large military net into which soldiers insert foliage to camouflage their positions. The net does not conceal his body since it has no foliage attached to it. The goth boy peers through an opening in the net, his fingers clinging to its cord strands. This photo was taken in 1984 by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger. The model is Rex. The subtitles at the bottom of the cover read, “Specimen, Liquid Sky, Fashion.”
Propaganda Issue #3/Summer 1984
Cover model: Rex

In 1989, Propaganda’s focus shifted to the West Coast, with Helter Skelter in Los Angeles, House of Usher in San Francisco, and Soil in San Diego being especially noteworthy destinations on my journalistic itinerary. Helter Skelter in particular catered to an exceptionally theatrical clientele, whose fashion sense recalled the horror cinema of Hollywood’s golden age. It was here that I discovered the remarkably beautiful John Koviak, the bass player of the L.A. goth band London After Midnight. I spent the next three years photographing and filming him and making him a household name throughout Gothdom. His girlfriend Tia Giles, with her bride of Dracula allure, also made a name for herself as the magazine’s leading female model. From 1991 to 1994, a series of Propaganda film productions were released, with John starring as an inquisitor priest in “The Sacrifice” and Tia starring as an aristocratic vampire in “Blood Countess.”

Propaganda Magazine Issue #6, Spring 1986, front cover. Price $1.75. The black & white cover photo depicts two beautiful female models in shiny black latex attire. The black girl on the left wears a long-sleeve dress and the white girl on the right wears a long-sleeve top and skirt. Both have heavy dark eye makeup and short dark hair. They are standing next to each other and are visible from the knees up, with a blank white wall in the background. They are on stage at the Danceteria nightclub in New York City for a fashion show by the London fetish designer Pure Sex. This photo was taken in 1985 by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger. The subtitles at the bottom of the cover read, “Love & Rockets, Xmal, Sisters, Cult.”
Propaganda Issue #6/Spring 1986
Pure Sex latex fashion show at New York’s Danceteria nightclub.

The next region to receive extensive coverage was the Southeast from 1996 to 1998, with articles about the Chamber in Atlanta, Club Z in Orlando, and the Angel Club in New Orleans being published. I made repeated trips to the first two nightspots, each of which hosted Propaganda parties, with the graveyards of the Big Easy providing magnificent locations for various fashion shoots. It was at this time that I acquired my next modeling sensation, the quintessential Cajun goth boy Christophe Boutlier, whose dark sultry mystique made him an instant fan favorite.

Propaganda Magazine Issue #13, Winter 1990, front cover. Price $2.95. Just below the PROPAGANDA title is a subheading that reads, “The Doomsday Issue, Number 13.” The black & white cover photo features Propaganda’s top supermodel John Koviak, renowned for his striking androgynous beauty. His head is turned slightly to his left as he gazes intensely at the camera. He wears a black tuxedo and frilly white blouse, and a small black cap. His dirty blonde hair is spiky with long strands hanging over his face. He is visible from the waist up, has his arms folded across his midsection, and holds a hand-sized silver Crucifix in his right hand. He’s leaning against a stone masonry wall of the historic Greystone Mansion in Beverly Hills, Los Angeles. This photo was taken in 1989 by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger. The subtitles at the bottom of the cover read, “Siouxsie, The Damned, Rocky Horror.”
Propaganda Issue #13/Winter 1990
Cover model: John Koviak

Another outstanding mannequin of the late ‘90s was Brooke, whose range of personas caused her to be perceived as several different male, female, and transgender models, with the covers of two consecutive issues displaying her best butch and femme looks. Throughout the decade notable goth, industrial, and darkwave groups came to Gotham, with Laibach playing at the Limelight, Shadow Project at the Pyramid Club, Diamanda Galas at Saint John’s Cathedral, and Death In June at the Angel Orensanz Center. All received prominent reviews with accompanying interviews. Such was the Propaganda modus operandi – an even mixture of music, fashion, and nightlife that set it apart from other genre publications, which reported almost exclusively on music-related topics.

Propaganda Magazine Issue #17, Fall 1991, front cover. Price $3.95. Just below the PROPAGANDA title is a subheading that reads, “Feast of Blood, Issue Number 17.” The black & white cover photo features Propaganda’s second most popular model Scott Crawford, with a face like a delicate porcelain doll. He wears a black velvet waistcoat and a ruffled white shirt with an ornate oval-shaped broach at the neckline. His longish duotone black-and-white hair covers the left side of his face, as he stares hauntingly into the camera lens. He is visible from the pelvis up and holds a bouquet of roses with both hands at waist level. In the background are several tombstones and trees in a cemetery located in northern New Jersey. This photo was taken in 1991 by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger. The subtitles at the bottom of the cover read, “Nephilim, Sisters, Skinny Puppy.”
Propaganda Issue #17/Fall 1991
Cover model: Scott Crawford

Propaganda’s editorial reach expanded overseas to Japan, France, Germany, and the Czech Republic from 1999 to the release of its final issue in 2002, with articles on Tokyo street style, the Paris Catacombs, Hamburg’s fetish scene, and Prague’s alternative nightlife. This resulted in a substantial amount of international press lauding the magazine’s unique and compelling counterculture perspective. Its 20th anniversary party was held at the legendary Parisian rock bar Les Furieux, which also presented an exhibition of my most iconic photography spanning the magazine’s entire history from 1982 to 2002. With an unforgettable finale featuring the avant-garde performance art of Propaganda’s last cover boy Lui A., it was a worthy tribute to the world’s preeminent gothic journal, and a fitting note on which to bring down the curtain on this quixotic venture after its epic publishing run.

Propaganda Magazine Issue #22, Spring 1995, front cover. Price $4.95. Just below the PROPAGANDA title is a subheading that reads, “Gothic Chronicle, Number 22.” The sepia tone cover photo features Propaganda’s third most popular model Tia Giles, who is lying in an antique 6-sided, satin-lined coffin. The upper half of her body is visible as she opens the coffin lid and gazes seductively at the camera. She has long blonde hair and minimal makeup, and wears a vintage white short-sleeve gown. This photo was taken in 1991 in Hollywood, California by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger. The subtitles at the bottom of the cover read, “Cocteau Twins, Lost Souls, Nights Children.”
Propaganda Issue #22/Spring 1995
Cover model: Tia Giles

From a small Xeroxed fanzine with only a few hundred copies distributed in New York City, to a full-size glossy periodical with up to 22,000 copies per issue distributed nationally and internationally, Propaganda had come a long way from its humble origins. Carried by the top book, magazine, and record retail chains of the era, from Barnes & Noble and Borders Books to Tower Records and Virgin Megastores, its influence could not be overstated. In her 2004 book, The Goth Bible, horror and dark fantasy author Nancy Kilpatrick wrote, “Propaganda is probably the only subculture publication known to just about every goth on the planet.”

Propaganda Magazine Issue #25, Winter 1999, front cover. Price $6.95. Just below the PROPAGANDA title is a subheading that reads, “Decadent Delight, Number 25.” The full-color cover photo features Propaganda’s most versatile model Brooke in the role of Dmitri, the main character of the fictitious cover story “Heroes: Anarchy In Moscow,” the title of which is superimposed over her right shoulder. In this bust shot, she is dressed as a leather man with a black leather motorcycle cap and jacket. She has short blonde hair, with several strands hanging over her eyes, and she has no makeup. Although the styling is quite butch, she appears more androgynous than masculine. Behind her is a white wall covered in the names of numerous 1970s and ‘80s new wave bands such as Duran Duran, Human League, Berlin, Ultravox, Modern English, and Japan. The subtitles at the bottom of the cover read, “London Suede, Bauhaus, New York Clubs.”
Propaganda Issue #25/Winter 1999
Cover model: Brooke in the role of Dmitri

After a 10-year hiatus, during which I worked as a freelance photojournalist for a number of goth, gay, and fetish publications, Propaganda was resurrected in 2013 on Facebook. Consisting primarily of material from when the magazine was in print, plus some contemporary music and art features, the page has acquired over 28,000 followers. And now, with the advent of propagandamagazine-gothic.com, the legacy continues, offering the dark and decadent delights for which the periodical was famous. Although in this latest incarnation, it enjoys greater freedom of expression than was permissible on the more tightly regulated social media platforms. As for myself, even though I’m not the energetic 25-year-old who launched Propaganda in 1982, I remain firmly committed to conveying its artistic vision to a new generation of the darkly inclined.


Content © by Fred Berger

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