Bats in the Belfry

Text & Photos by Fred Berger

Propaganda was the first American goth magazine, and those that came later were undoubtedly influenced by it, but none achieved anything close to the notoriety of the original. The one thing that distinguished Propaganda, which the others could never duplicate, were the style pictorials. While I delegated the bulk of the musical content to others, my signature contribution to the publication came in the form of fashionable photo spreads. Much of this material was shot spontaneously on the street in bohemian areas such as Ave. A in the East Village of Manhattan and Melrose Ave. in West Hollywood. Other opportunities presented themselves at various nightclubs, particularly Danceteria in New York and Helter Skelter in L.A. where the patrons were especially eye-catching. Even in these uncontrolled environments, I exerted a high degree of selectivity in choosing who I would photograph – only the best dressed and most photogenic were worthy of my attention.

This vertical Black & White photo depicts Rex, a pale and slender New York goth boy, with a thick mane of teased and spiked black hair. He is visible from the lower thighs up with his body turned slightly to his right and his eyes directed at the camera. He wears a black cotton toga cinched at the waist with a black canvas web belt, black leather bondage bracelets with silver fastening rings, and several earrings. He has thick black eyeliner and black lipstick, with black blush to accentuate his cheekbones. His neck, exposed left shoulder and left arm are smeared with several long streaks of black makeup. In his hands he holds a “Ladies” restroom sign, which depicts a woman with a dress sitting in a chair looking at a mirror; it has a 1950s vintage look to it. The electrical cord for the sign hangs down from the back of it. He stands in front of a wall made of wooden planks with a small window, which have a worn rustic look. Hanging over the upper part of the wall is a military surplus camouflage net with strips of dark fabric for concealment of troop positions. This photo was taken by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger.
Propaganda poster boy Rex, challenging social norms and being gruesomely glamorous. This photo-shoot appeared in Propaganda Magazine Issue #5/Sept-Oct 1985. (Photo & Copyright © by Fred Berger)

It was through this impromptu casting process that I discovered some extraordinary talent, one of the earliest and most prolific of whom was Rex. He would become the template for future Propaganda models, which a Village Voice reviewer described collectively as “asexual” owing to their gender ambiguity. Rex’s photo features in the early to mid-80s attracted an immediate and devoted following, earning him the distinction of being the magazine’s first “supermodel.” In fact, many mistook him for Jonny Slut, the comely keyboardist of the English goth band Specimen. Rex presented a wide range of characters and fashion statements from punk rock Road Warrior to seductive Nosferatu, the latter of which is portrayed here in all its luscious depravity. Like a bat ensconced in a dingy church belfry, soiling and gnawing at its timbers, he exudes a dark luminescence made all the more radiant by his affront to conventional mores.

This horizontal Black & White photo is a medium closeup of Rex holding the “Ladies” sign up to his face and sticking his tongue out to the point of almost licking the behind of the illustrated woman. In this bust shot, his shoulders are turned slightly toward the camera and his face appears in profile. His glances downward in the direction of her backside, his vision partly obstructed by the long black tresses hanging in his face. His hair, makeup, and attire are the same as in the previous photo of this article. The location is also the same. This photo was taken by Propaganda publisher and editor Fred Berger.
This über goth boy, a Manhattan club scene luminary from 1983 to 1986, was a perfectly shameless seducer and provocateur. (Photo & Copyright © by Fred Berger)

Content © by Fred Berger

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